This Underrated Greek Island Features Secluded Beaches, Rugged Hiking Trails, and a Picture-Perfect Town — All Within an Hour of Santorini
Every summer, Mykonos and Santorini attract hordes of tourists. While both have their appeal, they’re not the only gems worthy of a well-planned Greek island-hopping itinerary. In recent years, Milos, Sifnos, and Paros have gained popularity among international travelers. Yet, Folegandros remains largely overlooked. Perhaps this is due to the challenge of actually reaching the island; despite being near Santorini, Ios, and Sikinos, ferry service is still limited and unpredictable.
The scarcity of transportation options likely helps to stave off overtourism and maintain the island's charming atmosphere. Still largely undeveloped and ruggedly beautiful, this small island, home to just over 700 residents, boasts unspoiled beaches — many of which are accessible only by boat or a somewhat challenging hike — stunning Cycladic architecture, and a village that feels like a step back in time. Its small size and close-knit community create an inviting atmosphere. After a few days, Folegandros feels delightfully familiar as you encounter the same locals enjoying coffee by the Castro and sunbathing at Agali Beach.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan an ideal getaway to the tranquil island of Folegandros.
Top Hotels & Resorts
Image courtesy of Anemi HotelAnemomilos
For 31 years, Anemomilos has been a beloved family-run boutique hotel in the Cyclades. Nestled on a hillside just steps from Chora, the main village, it boasts postcard-perfect whitewashed buildings, charming rooms suitable for both couples and families, along with a pool and restaurant that offer stunning views of the Aegean Sea.
Gundari
The latest gem in Greece's hotel scene, Gundari is a luxury getaway perched on a dramatic cliff. Accessible via a rugged dirt road that winds through dry farmland, it feels wonderfully secluded while being only a 10-minute drive from town. The earthy bungalow-style lodgings feature private plunge pools. Looking to unwind? Treat yourself to a rejuvenating massage at the spa.
Anemi
Situated just steps from the port, Anemi serves as a perfect base for exploring Folegandros. The hotel offers cozy rooms (pro tip: opt for a sea-view room to enjoy morning coffee on your terrace), a pool deck with shaded umbrellas and loungers, a relaxing spa, an outdoor yoga shala and gym, plus a playground for children.
Polikandia Hotel
Tucked away yet conveniently close to the town square, Polikandia Hotel is praised for its prime location, inviting atmosphere, and exceptional hospitality. Guests frequently commend the friendly service and accommodating staff. Room options range from newly constructed superior rooms to a suite named after the renowned palace of Knossos. The outdoor pool offers a refreshing retreat after a day of exploring.
Pasithea Folegandros
Offering stunning views of Agali Beach at wallet-friendly prices, Pasithea Folegandros is perfect for those looking for a laid-back beach getaway. It's an ideal spot to savor fresh seafood at the terrace restaurant and enjoy swimming in the crystal-clear Aegean Sea.
Best Things to Do
Christian Marquardt/Getty ImagesChora
"The enchanting main town (Chora) is a must-see, featuring lovely Cycladic architecture, winding alleys, and breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea," shares Poly Giouri, a local tour guide in Folegandros. "Stroll through its maze-like streets, shop for unique items, savor a meal or drink at a traditional taverna or café, and don’t miss the Church of Panagia perched on the cliffside."
Agali Beach
Nestled on the southern coast of Folegandros, Agali Beach attracts both locals and tourists with its crystal-clear waters and stunning rocky landscape. It’s perfect for relaxation, swimming, and soaking up the sun. "There are also a few local tavernas nearby where you can savor fresh seafood," adds Giouri.
Katergo Beach
For those eager to explore Katergo Beach, prepare for either a boat ride or a challenging hike. Renowned for its natural beauty and seclusion, the beach features turquoise waters and rocky cliffs, making it a favorite spot for adventurers and nature enthusiasts.
Ano Meria
To experience the rural charm of Folegandros, visit Ano Meria, a traditional village in the northern region known for its unique dry-stone walls and terraced fields. Giouri suggests checking out the Ecological and Folklore Museum to learn about local customs and agriculture, along with a visit to the local bakery.
Livadaki Beach
Tucked away and reachable by a walking path from Ano Meria or by boat from Agali Beach, Livadaki Beach offers serenity and breathtaking views surrounded by cliffs, with shady spots under tamarisk trees. According to Giouri, it’s an ideal choice for those looking for a quieter escape from the more frequented beaches.
Best Restaurants
Christian Marquardt/Getty ImagesPapalagi
Renowned as one of the island's most cherished dining spots, Papalagi is perched on a rocky cliff, offering breathtaking views of the stunningly blue waters of Agios Nikolaos. The delightful cuisine and laid-back atmosphere enhance the picturesque experience, making it a perfect place for a leisurely lunch featuring Greek salad, grilled local octopus, and malagousia, a refreshing Greek white wine.
To Barbounaki
While Folegandros boasts numerous options for seafood lovers, To Barbounaki remains a favorite among diners, thanks to its use of fresh ingredients and the culinary expertise of chef Konstantinos Dalianis. Signature dishes like calamari, the grilled catch of the day, and lobster pasta are sure to satisfy.
Chic Restaurant
With vibrant green tables extending from the patio onto the street, Chic Restaurant is a standout spot in the heart of Chora. Securing a last-minute summer reservation can be challenging (but not impossible). The pork souvlaki and local lamb with prunes are crowd favorites, bringing diners back for more.
Irini's Tavern & Grocery Store
Dining at Irini's Tavern & Grocery Store in Ano Meria feels like enjoying lunch at your grandmother’s home—if her pantry were filled with canned goods and everyday essentials. Instead of a typical menu, patrons are welcomed with a simple, "Today we have X, Y, and Z." The offerings often include traditional pasta (matsata), meatballs, slow-cooked pork, Greek salad, and fried potatoes, all deliciously prepared.
Piatsa Restaurant
The sun-kissed blue tables at Piatsa Restaurant are set in a central courtyard and adjacent terrace. In the late afternoon and into the evening, diners from all corners of the island gather to enjoy baked chickpeas, homemade pasta with goat in a zesty lemon sauce, and succulent roasted pork.
Best Time to Visit
mbbirdy/Getty ImagesFolegandros sees the most visitors during the summer months. While it never feels overly crowded, June, July, and August bring a bit more activity. Late spring and early fall are typically quieter and offer a more relaxing experience. Thanks to the mild Mediterranean climate, the weather is generally pleasant. Winter is best avoided due to strong winds and the closure of many establishments for the off-season.
How to Get There
Francesco Riccardo Iacomino/Getty ImagesMost visitors travel through Athens, flying into Santorini, the nearest airport to Folegandros. From there, a Seajets ferry takes about 50 minutes. Alternatively, you can charter a private boat from nearby islands for a scenic day out, though it can be more expensive. Want to avoid the occasionally rough seas? Hoper offers scheduled helicopter flights to several Aegean destinations.
How to Get Around
Folegandros is relatively small, but its rugged, mountainous landscape can make walking challenging (though some brave souls try). The best option is to rent a car or quad bike. Just be aware that the terrain is hilly and many of the more secluded roads are unpaved, so driving here requires caution.
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