Ways to Explore Beyond the Tourist Trails in Venice

Known as La Serenissima, the City of Canals, or the Queen of the Adriatic, Venice is a mesmerizing destination, not just in Italy but worldwide. Living a few hours away in Rome, I feel drawn to Venice's charm every time I visit. However, this allure risks overwhelming the delicate city. Venice has been tackling overtourism for years, implementing a ban on large cruise ships in 2021, and a long-debated fee for day visitors and a cap on tour group sizes will finally roll out this year.

While I’m not discouraging a trip to Venice, planning your visit is crucial—for the city’s wellbeing and your enjoyment. Navigating narrow calles filled with tour groups led by flag-waving guides can be frustrating. The ideal time to visit is during the low season, from November to March. I visited in November 2023 and enjoyed fewer tourists and more pleasant weather compared to the bustling summer months.

Venice has much more to offer than just iconic sites like Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. The city resembles a fish, with the Grand Canal flowing through it in a reverse S shape. As you move away from the Grand Canal, the crowds diminish, revealing a more serene side of Venice. Better yet, explore the smaller islands in the lagoon to experience the city’s magic without the masses.

Discover Piazza San Marco the Right Way

A visit to Venice isn’t complete without seeing Piazza San Marco, the iconic square that epitomizes the city. However, it’s also a hotspot for tourists. “Visiting San Marco in the evening is wonderful when the bars and shops close, and the crowds have thinned,” says Elena Micheluzzi, a lifelong Venetian and one of the sisters behind Micheluzzi Glass. They preserve the art of traditional glassmaking by partnering with a furnace in Murano to create and sell tumblers, vases, and more in their Dorsoduro gallery. She suggests planning an evening visit to the Basilica di San Marco, home to stunning Byzantine mosaics. If you want to check out the Rialto, aim to be there when the market opens at 7:30 a.m., right after the fishermen bring in their catch; you might spot chefs selecting fresh produce for their lunch preparations.

Sara Maestrelli, the innovative hotelier behind the newly opened Violino d’Oro, part of the Leading Hotels of the World and just a five-minute stroll from Piazza San Marco, recommends visiting in November, December, or January, with January being “the most desolate, foggy, and enchanting month in Venice.” She adds, “Some restaurants may be closed in January, but wandering through the empty, fog-laden alleys along the black and gold canals is truly priceless.”

Explore the Outer Islands

While many tourists flock to the busy streets and canals of the main island, the Venetian lagoon is home to over 100 small islands. Most can be easily reached via vaporetti (the local waterbuses). Beyond the well-known islands like Murano, famous for its glassmaking, and Burano, the colorful island steeped in lace-making tradition, there are many hidden gems to discover. For instance, Giudecca lies directly across from the Zattere in Dorsoduro, one of the six historic districts on the main island. “On the island, you’ll find the Basilica del Santissimo Redentore, a renowned church by Palladio, celebrated during the Festa del Redentore in July,” Micheluzzi shares.

She also highlights Isola di San Giorgio, stating it’s “just in front of San Marco but away from the throngs,” and is home to the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, a cultural hub for the arts, music, and humanities, as well as the Basilica di San Giorgio Maggiore, whose bell tower offers the highest viewpoint in Venice. For those interested in modern glassmaking, Le Stanze del Vetro is a fantastic exhibition space created in partnership between the Cini Foundation and Pentagram Stiftung. San Giorgio also hosts La Compagnia della Vela, which organizes regattas and offers short sailing courses lasting two to four days that travelers can join.

In addition to its rich art and historic architecture, Venice offers plenty for nature enthusiasts. Take Lido, for instance—the only island in the lagoon with a sandy beach perfect for swimming. Micheluzzi mentions that you can bike to the WWF Oasis Dunes of the Alberoni, a protected 395-acre natural reserve featuring a 10-mile bike path and a lighthouse. Maestrelli also suggests visiting the nearby island of Pellestrina, home to the Ca’ Roman nature reserve, and enjoying a sunset dinner at Ristorante Da Nane.

Explore Hidden Gems

While tourists flock to the Doge’s Palace, Basilica di San Marco, Galleria dell’Accademia, and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, there are numerous lesser-known museums, churches, and attractions that remain uncrowded. Consider visiting these alternative destinations.

Museums

During my latest visit to Venice, I explored Palazzo Grassi, part of the Pinault Collection, which hosts modern and contemporary art exhibitions in an 18th-century palazzo along the Grand Canal. (Your ticket also grants access to Punta della Dogana, the other location of the Pinault Collection in Venice.) Micheluzzi recommends Ca’ Rezzonico, a museum dedicated to the 1700s, along with its beautiful gardens. She also suggests checking out the Museo Fortuny, home to early 20th-century artist Mariano Fortuny’s studio, the Casa Museo Querini Stampalia and its Gardens designed by Carlo Scarpa, and the Negozio Olivetti, which showcases Olivetti typewriters designed by the midcentury architect Carlo Scarpa.

Churches and Religious Structures

In addition to museums, the city’s churches and religious buildings boast an impressive array of Renaissance art by Venetian masters such as Veronese, Titian, and Tintoretto. While staying at Violino d’Oro, Maestrelli took me to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a lay confraternity adorned with over 60 monumental paintings by Tintoretto, and it was nearly empty. We also visited Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, which houses the tomb of sculptor Antonio Canova alongside works by Titian and Bellini. Micheluzzi recommends the Church of San Pantalon, noted for its world’s largest ceiling painting on canvas.

Gardens

“I cherish finding tranquility during the sweltering summer days behind San Marco in the Giardini Reali,” shares Maestrelli. She points out that Venice is home to many hidden gardens, such as the Gardens of the Scuola Grande della Misericordia. Micheluzzi suggests the rose gardens at San Francesco della Vigna, a Franciscan convent located in Castello, the sestiere that hosts the Venice Biennale.

Dine Where the Locals Dine

With around 30 million tourists visiting each year and an estimated population of 257,777, finding authentic restaurants that cater to locals instead of tourists may seem daunting, but it is achievable with some effort. When unsure, ask your hotel concierge where they enjoy eating in their free time, rather than where they direct guests.

For instance, Maestrelli took me to Enoteca Schiavi, a straightforward wine bar in Dorsoduro known for its cicchetti. We selected various small bites from the counter and enjoyed them on paper plates, sitting on the stone wall overlooking the canal outside. For dinner, she recommends Osteria Al Bacareto, which has been serving traditional Venetian dishes like baccalà mantecato (whipped salted cod) and sarde in saor (sardines in sweet and sour sauce) since 1971.

Micheluzzi suggests Corte Sconta, which sources its seafood from the Rialto Market and vegetables from the island of Sant’Erasmo, as well as Al Covo, run by a husband-and-wife duo (he’s Italian, she’s American) who embrace the Slow Food movement. Both restaurants are located in Castello, a quieter area than San Marco.

Support Local Artisans

Avoid tourist shops selling cheap, mass-produced “Murano glass” items, and instead seek out the artists and artisans dedicated to preserving this craft. In addition to Micheluzzi Glass, which has a gallery in Dorsoduro, be sure to visit the studios in Murano like Orovetro, Vetreria Venier, and Berengo Studio, known for collaborating with contemporary artists.

For textiles, Micheluzzi recommends Tessiture Luigi Bevilacqua, one of the last artisanal weaving workshops in Venice still producing velvet using 18th-century looms. To find genuine handmade lace, visit Martina Vidal on the vibrant island of Burano. Another artisan shop suggested by Micheluzzi is Signor Blum, which specializes in charming wooden puzzles.

Choose a Hotel Over an Airbnb

While Airbnb promotes the idea of living like a local, in Venice, the platform has contributed to rising housing costs, displacing residents. To truly support Venice and its inhabitants, opt for a hotel that employs locals and bolsters the city’s economy.

The aforementioned Violino d’Oro is a paradise for design enthusiasts, featuring a delightful blend of contemporary art and midcentury design. Its prime location is ideal for those wanting to stay in the heart of the city, with easy access to Piazza San Marco at night when the crowds have thinned out. For a more tranquil stay, consider the luxurious Belmond Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca Island or San Clemente Palace Kempinski, which is situated on its own private island. Both hotels provide boat services that transport guests to and from Piazza San Marco.

Utilize a Gondola Ferry

While a standard gondola ride costs €90 for 30 minutes during the day and €110 at night, locals have a cost-effective tip. At several designated spots in the city, you can hop on a gondola ferry to cross the Grand Canal for just €2. Although the ride lasts only a few minutes, it’s the quickest way to cross at locations without a bridge or vaporetto stop.