What it's like to experience the Turks and Caicos Islands today

When the chance to spend three nights on Providenciales, the most popular island in Turks and Caicos, came up, I was eager to go. COVID-19 cases were low throughout July (the islands even recorded zero infections the week before my departure), entry requirements were stringent, and the CDC's travel advisory was Level 1: Low Level of COVID-19, making me comfortable with this being my first trip after vaccination — and my first flight and hotel stay in over 17 months. Being naturally risk-averse, sitting out the global pandemic was a significant change for me, especially since I used to travel at least once a month before March 2020. However, it felt like the perfect time for a long weekend getaway with my niece.

Here’s what I encountered and what you can look forward to. Note: Entry requirements have recently changed, with the pre-testing window for authorization now set at three days instead of five, and both PCR and antigen tests are accepted. More on that later.

Obtaining authorization

Thanks to its close proximity to the U.S. and the daily nonstop flights from American, Delta, JetBlue, and United operating from various cities — including New York, Newark, Washington, Charlotte, Atlanta, Houston, and Dallas — Providenciales is an easily accessible Caribbean getaway. However, that doesn’t mean the Turks and Caicos government made it simple; I had to navigate a few pre-travel requirements before enjoying the islands’ stunning white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters.

After checking the Turks and Caicos Islands Tourism website, I realized I needed authorization to board my flight, which involved several steps. The first was getting tested. Since my flight was on July 23, before the entry protocol changes on July 28, I had a five-day window to take a PCR test, receive a negative result, and upload it to the TCI Assured portal. The site advised testing on Sunday for a Friday flight, but warned that if my authorization expired (which it would after July 23), I’d need another test and authorization. Therefore, if my flight got canceled, I would have to repeat the whole process to reschedule for July 24.

That seemed overwhelming, so I opted to test on Monday, July 19, giving me an extra day of authorization. I also told my niece, Jessica, who was flying in to meet me in Providenciales, to do the same. Living in New York City, I researched and decided to get tested (my first COVID-19 test) at a LabQ mobile testing van recommended by friends who had recently traveled. To be sure, I called LabQ’s toll-free number three times and spoke to three different representatives, all of whom confirmed that the nasopharyngeal PCR test was indeed required for authorization, promising results within 24 hours, along with a downloadable lab report for the TCI Assured portal. The test was free, and after a few swabs, I headed home to wait for the results.

A few days earlier, I had completed another requirement for TCI Assured authorization: obtaining medical/travel insurance valid in Turks and Caicos for "COVID-19 medical costs, full hospitalization, doctor visits, prescriptions, and air ambulance/medevac." I had let my annual insurance lapse in 2020 due to lack of travel, so I purchased a medical plan valid for my trip dates from United Healthcare Global's SafeTrip. I also advised my niece to do the same.

I received a text from LabQ at 11 p.m. on July 19 — just 13 hours after my test — notifying me that my results were ready for download. I was negative.

The following morning, July 20, I accessed the TCI Assured portal, where I completed the health screening questionnaire, confirmed that I had read the privacy policy, and uploaded my negative lab report along with proof of medical insurance. The portal indicated that travelers should expect a response within 24 hours. Almost precisely 24 hours later (at 11 a.m. on July 21), I received two emails: the first confirming my approval, and the second requesting additional information.

What?

It turned out that the travel/medical insurance required by TCI must include coverage for quarantine in the event of a positive test while on the island. My policy only covered medical expenses, hospitalization, and emergency evacuation, but not the costs associated with quarantine if I tested positive. As I was fully vaccinated and planned to be on Providenciales for less than 48 hours before needing to test for my return to the U.S., I submitted a letter stating that I would assume any potential quarantine costs. I advised my niece, who is also fully vaccinated, to do the same. I received approval about an hour later, while my niece's test result took around 36 hours, causing her to apply later and receive her approval the night before her flight.

If I had to repeat this process, considering the recent concerns regarding the contagiousness of the delta variant, I would ensure my travel/medical insurance included coverage for quarantine costs.

With Turks and Caicos now reducing its pre-travel testing window from five days to three, it's crucial to carefully plan the timing of your test (and the speed of result delivery) along with your application. Here are the current requirements: "Effective July 28, 2021, the Turks and Caicos Islands will accept negative antigen tests taken via nasopharyngeal swab and PCR tests via oropharyngeal/nasopharyngeal swab. All COVID-19 tests must be completed within three days prior to your arrival. Children under 10 are exempt from this requirement."

You can find specific details and additional FAQs here.

The accepted types of tests are:

• A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) test.
• A nucleic acid amplification test (NAA).
• An RNA or molecular test.
• An antigen test performed via nasopharyngeal swab.

The official documentation from the laboratory that conducted your COVID-19 test should include:

• Name of the individual tested (must match the application and lab test result).
• Date of birth of the individual tested (must match the application and lab test result).
• Name and contact information of the testing laboratory.
• Indication of laboratory credentials (CLIA, ISO 15189).
• Date and time of sample collection.
• Type of test performed.
• Type of sample collected.
• Test result provided.

Checking In and Departing

As a carry-on traveler, I appreciate the convenience of checking in online 24 hours before a flight and downloading my boarding pass to my phone — but with the testing and authorization required for Turks and Caicos, that wasn’t feasible. In fact, Delta's website recommended arriving at least three hours prior to my 9:40 a.m. flight, as I needed to check in in person before passing through security. I reached JFK at 6:50 a.m. and was pleasantly surprised to walk right up to the counter, present my authorization, check in, and receive my boarding pass. It was a Friday in late July, and although the security line was long, it moved quickly. Within 30 minutes, I was on my way to my gate. As I glanced at the departures board, I saw that my flight was delayed until 10:45 a.m., giving me more than three hours until departure.

Approximately 45 minutes before boarding, all passengers heading to Providenciales were asked to check in again and present their authorization to a gate agent, who confirmed the validity of the authorization date and marked boarding passes with "OK." I noticed one traveler looking visibly upset and wondered if she had tested too early and her authorization had expired. Once we finally boarded, the flight was nearly full, with many families on board. Surrounded by kids and teens, I kept my mask on throughout the three-hour flight, saving the handout nuts for later and sipping my pre-purchased iced tea through a straw slipped beneath my mask.

I was grateful to have a pen, as the flight attendants distributed three forms — a health questionnaire, customs declaration, and an international embarkation/disembarkation card — that needed to be completed before arrival. Some forms required the name and address of my hotel, so it’s wise to have that information ready.

The Arrival Process

I should have mentioned earlier that I printed out all necessary documents — TCI Assured authorization, lab test result, and insurance papers — which turned out to be essential, as hard copies of all three had to be shown to the inspector at the end of the winding immigration line. Next, there was a temperature check and another queue for the official review of the forms I had completed on the plane (everyone must keep the lower portion of the embarkation/disembarkation card returned with their passport; it's needed to exit the country). I waited for my niece, who arrived on a United flight from Houston, and together we stepped outside, fully masked (a requirement in all public spaces until at least Sept. 30) to the taxi stand.

In Providenciales, airport taxis operate as shared rides in vans, charging per person (typically $27-$40 for most resorts). Masks are mandatory throughout the ride. Our van was completely full, but we only had to make one stop before reaching The Shore Club Turks and Caicos on Long Bay Beach.

On-Island Restrictions and Protocols

Upon checking in, Jessica and I were briefed on the resort's protocols — masks were mandatory in the lobby, gift shop, spa, and while waiting to be seated at the restaurants (including during breakfast buffet). In other areas, wearing a mask was optional (I chose to wear one in the elevator as well). Hand-sanitizer stations were abundant, and the tables in the four on-site restaurants, which feature partial coverings and open-air seating, were arranged to comply with the island's 70% capacity rule.

Staff members consistently wore masks, and reservations were necessary to access the fitness center. Aside from that, the expected five-star amenities of this elegant 110-room condo-resort, which opened in early 2017 and is a sibling property to The Palms Turks and Caicos and The Sands at Grace Bay, appeared largely unchanged from the pre-COVID-19 days. Most tourist activities — excursions, shops, restaurants, and bars — were up and running, with a midnight curfew and capacity limits in place.

With only two days to relish the beach and Providenciales' stunning waters, Jessica and I opted to spend Saturday at the resort, where I indulged in a 60-minute massage (mask off while face down for comfort, on while face up; my Balinese therapist was masked) before unwinding on shaded lounge chairs and enjoying ocean dips, which by afternoon had mostly cleared of the sargassum seaweed that can accumulate on windward beaches during summer.

Many guests were active in or on the water, swimming, Jet Skiing, or kiteboarding, but we were content to relax and sip cocktails in the late afternoon (after all, this was my first day of true relaxation away from home) before freshening up and heading to dinner at the resort's open-air Sui-Ren restaurant.

On Sunday morning, we followed the signs for COVID-19 testing to a facility near the fitness center that had been set up for complimentary on-site testing for all travelers returning to the U.S.. At 10 a.m., after self-swabbing both nostrils and having the samples prepared for the lab, we were informed that results would be available at the front desk after 5 p.m. We then boarded an 11 a.m. complimentary shuttle (masks required) to The Palms for an open-air lunch at the beachside 72 West restaurant, where we swam in the calm, clear waters of beautiful Grace Bay (no seaweed here) and later relaxed in the resort's stunning freeform pool, enjoying cocktails and a socially distanced chat with a couple from New York at the swim-up bar.

Back at The Shore Club, we picked up our test results from the front desk. As the staff member handed us the envelopes, I expressed my hope that they were both negative, and the employee reassured us that we would have received a call had the results been positive. With everything in order, Jessica and I were ready to head home.

Departure back to the US

Mondays can be tough, especially when you're leaving a Caribbean paradise after a brief visit. With our negative PCR test results in hand, we took a taxi to the airport (our driver proudly displayed an official "vaccinated" card in the rearview mirror), arriving the recommended two hours before our departure. Unfortunately, the scheduling of nine flights to the U.S. within a two-hour window at the small airport meant that social distancing was not possible.

I layered my mask as I waited to check in (my passport and printed COVID-19 test result were reviewed, and my boarding pass received a red "Docs OK" stamp). After that, I joined Jessica in her line before waiting through another lengthy queue for a temperature check, clearing security, and finally entering a bustling gate area filled with travelers awaiting their flights.

Bottom line

The hectic departure from Providenciales wasn't the conclusion I had hoped for after my otherwise relaxing Caribbean escape, but it was hardly surprising. Travel has returned, bringing with it familiar frustrations—plus the extra challenge of ensuring compliance with testing and entry requirements. Nonetheless, for my first international journey, it was relatively smooth and thoroughly enjoyable. This brief trip to a destination with minimal COVID-19 cases has boosted my confidence as I start preparing for my next international adventure: an 11-night Viking cruise through the Adriatic from Malta in late August.