What It’s Truly Like to Sail in the Arctic

How does a cruise to Antarctica differ from one in the Arctic Circle? According to our expedition leader, as we departed from Svalbard, Norway, for a two-week journey this past July, you quickly realize you’re not at the top of the food chain.

That coveted position belongs to the polar bear. The chance to witness one in its natural habitat is precisely why I prioritized sailing with the small ship operated by Australian adventure cruise line Aurora Expeditions over a trip to the Seventh Continent on my travel bucket list.

Yet, I had no idea just how significantly these magnificent white marine mammals would influence nearly every aspect of our experience aboard Aurora Expeditions’ new ultra-modern and carbon-neutral certified Sylvia Earle expedition vessel.

Are morning plans set for a wildlife-spotting Zodiac or kayak cruise? Not if the fog is too thick, as polar bears are known to be quite curious about Zodiacs, explained expedition leader Howard Whelan. That afternoon hike? It gets canceled at the last moment if the scout team identifies a bear on the island, since they are incredibly quick on both land and water, and it’s best to keep a safe distance.

However, with the right expedition team and vessel, that uncertainty and shifting plans can, in my view, enhance the thrill of this type of travel. After all, true expedition travel is about delving into the unknown. On our Aurora voyage, every letdown was often followed by an unexpected delight—including polar bear encounters—thanks to the persistence and expertise of the captain, Whelan, and his crew.

Fortunately, the crew's determination to explore seldom-visited islands and coastlines was always balanced by a strong commitment to sustainability, even if it sometimes meant compromising the guest experience. In simpler terms, if our actions could risk the safety of animals or landscapes, we wouldn’t take that chance.

The Route of Our Arctic Expedition

Our journey commenced in Svalbard, a remote unincorporated archipelago situated within the Arctic Circle, positioned halfway between Norway’s northern coast and the North Pole; it boasts the largest concentration of polar bears in the world.

On our first day, we explored Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost settlement with over 1,000 residents. We interacted with sled dogs at Camp Barnetsz, a rustic lodge featuring wooden cabins, including a replica of the cabin where Willem Barentz, the explorer who discovered Svalbard, spent a winter in 1596. We also visited the eclectic Svalbard Museum, filled with historical artifacts and exhibits showcasing local flora and fauna, including, of course, polar bears. Before boarding our ship, we took a moment to view the exterior of the Global Seed Vault, a type of Noah’s Ark for plant species, preserving a backup collection of over 1.2 million seeds from around the globe.

Following that, the (very flexible) plan was to spend four days exploring the islands of Svalbard before heading to the eastern coast of Greenland. However, in a region known for its unpredictable weather, Mother Nature had her own agenda. Unusually thick ice along the eastern Greenland coast hindered access, allowing only ice-breaking class ships to reach the shore. (The Sylvia Earle is rated as polar class 6, enabling it to navigate through nearly four feet of ice but not classified as a true icebreaker.) While this ice congestion forced some passenger vessels to retreat to more accessible ports, Whelan and the captain remained determined to push ahead and deliver adventure all the way to our final destination in Reykjavík, Iceland.

They certainly lived up to expectations. For the next 12 days, we were blissfully off the grid, seeking out those elusive polar bears and other hidden treasures in places seldom visited by humans. Our only brush with civilization came at the remote volcanic island of Jan Mayen in Norway, which hosts a small military outpost that occasionally allows smaller ships to dock for passengers to hike along its rugged coastline and dramatic cliffs.

This stop proved to be quite fortunate, as we never reached Ittoqqortoormiiut, one of Greenland’s more isolated settlements. Aside from our interest in the quaint town, we needed to clear Schengen Zone customs there to land at other locations along the Greenland coast. However, since Jan Mayen is within the Schengen Zone, we were able to disembark on remote, uninhabited beaches and islands in eastern Greenland that were not obstructed by ice.

Exploring the unknown

Locating places to explore proved challenging, Whelan confessed. At one point, the captain dedicated two days to eating all his meals on the bridge, meticulously steering through the ice while Whelan analyzed maps for potential landing sites.

Among the discoveries was the tiny island of Norder Aputiteq, where we hiked around a deserted weather station from the 1940s and stumbled upon the remnants of an Inuit dwelling. We also navigated Zodiacs through icy fields to get up close to colossal glaciers and ice formations that rival stadiums in size.

Other memorable excursions during our two-week journey included a brief hike to the Diskobukta canyon on Edgeoya island, a notoriously tricky spot to access unless the tides cooperate. There, we traced polar bear tracks and observed Arctic foxes hunting the thousands of kittiwakes nesting along the canyon’s cliffs. That afternoon, we enjoyed a double treat, cruising slowly in our Zodiacs past inquisitive groups of walruses just offshore from a small island where we spotted a polar bear watching us before it settled down for a nap.

We also glided along the massive front of Austfonna, the world’s third-largest ice cap. And did I mention the whales? Or the puffins, guillemots, and all the other Arctic birds?

Nonetheless, every encounter was approached with the utmost caution and respect for our environment. Before we set sail, the team provided us with thorough instructions on how to react should we come across a polar bear, stressing that while the crew was armed, the precautions were equally, if not more, about the bear’s safety. “We never want to use our guns,” the team explained to us.

Similarly, the crew was extremely mindful of not causing distress to the wildlife. One day, while sailing, the captain gradually turned the ship toward a polar bear spotted on a distant ice floe. However, once it became clear that the bear was actively swimming away rather than simply hunting, we decided to retreat and continue on our original course.

Regarding the plans to disembark from our Zodiacs and walk on the sea ice? Those were scrapped after the team concluded that navigating through and breaking the ice would severely damage the polar bear habitat.

Essential information about Aurora Expeditions’ new Sylvia Earle ship

The Sylvia Earle, named in honor of the renowned oceanographer and climate activist, represents a new wave of polar vessels focused on sustainability and expedition expertise, rather than the ultra-luxury offerings seen in some of the high-end ships recently introduced to the market.

We didn't have butlers serving caviar or any of the latest high-tech gadgets like helicopters or submersibles that could disturb the wildlife. Plus, there was no need to dress up for dinner.

What we did enjoy was a cozy and laid-back atmosphere with numerous luxurious amenities, including gourmet dining, fine wines, and spacious cabins (most featuring king-size beds, balconies, comfortable seating areas, and even heated bathroom floors). The ship also boasted various public spaces, such as a library with a faux fireplace, glass-walled lounges for wildlife and scenic viewing, two dining options, a top-deck observation lounge that can be used indoors and outdoors, a science center, and a lecture hall for insightful discussions on climate change. There’s even an ocean-view sauna and two hot tubs on the sundeck.

Designed with environmental consciousness in mind, the ship features low-emission, fuel-efficient Tier-3 engines. Its X-Bow inverted design helps it slice through waves smoothly, enhancing comfort and lowering fuel usage. Additionally, the Sylvia Earle employs GPS-controlled stabilizers to hold its position without anchors that could damage the seabed. Onboard desalination plants convert seawater into drinkable freshwater, allowing the ship to carry less freshwater and further decreasing fuel consumption.

On land, the crew remains vigilant about environmental protection, bringing bags on the Zodiacs to collect any stray marine debris. Before our first shore excursion, they meticulously checked our backpacks, gloves, hats, and outer layers, vacuuming them if necessary to prevent any dirt or debris from affecting native plants and wildlife.

Arctic expeditions with a reduced environmental impact

Traveling with Aurora Expeditions offered an ideal blend of adventure and sustainability. It eased my worries about joining the increasing number of tourists flocking to the growing fleet of luxury expedition ships venturing into delicate polar regions as glaciers and ice caps continue to melt, threatening crucial wildlife habitats.

The Australian company is at the forefront of promoting transparency and accountability in remote travel, having recently released its inaugural impact report, titled “Protecting the World’s Wild Places.” This report highlights their commitment to safeguarding the very ecosystems they explore with travelers.

Beyond supporting the U.N.’s Sustainable Development Goals and engaging passengers through citizen science initiatives, Aurora is committed to enhancing access to climate change education for young people worldwide. Thanks to its sustainability initiatives, the company is poised to achieve B Corp Certification in 2024.

While one might contend that any growth in cruising carries environmental implications, I felt reassured knowing that with the right operator, it's possible to discover some of the planet's most isolated areas while minimizing our ecological footprint.